Returning to climbing

I have had many breaks from climbing. Returning is always difficult. But this time it seems different. And that’s because everything is different.

MindsetKatherine SchirrmacherJuly 25, 2020injury

What do you see?

The retinal images sent to the brain of what we see are not pure, crystal clear 3D images. It is in actual fact, the brain that makes sense of the image. And that picture is an interpretation based on what we know of the world, our memory and imagination.

TechniqueKatherine SchirrmacherMarch 9, 2020Technique, FootworkComment

Learning to Listen

Is the mind stronger than the body, when the body gets injured regularly and the mind continues to want to push on?? I’ve come to believe the opposite: that it is a strong mind that reads the signs early and responds calmly and appropriately. Because hearing the whispers takes diligence, patience and work.

MindsetKatherine SchirrmacherNovember 12, 2019

Trust

If we hold on so hard and only focus on the controllable, there is no space for freedom, lightness and creativity. If we cannot learn to trust and be ok with uncertainty, we’ll find it hard to let go of a certain outcome. And when things are really out of control – we have no capacity to deal with it.

MindsetKatherine SchirrmacherOctober 1, 2019

5 quick technique fixes

Overall it takes a very long time to build up good technique. However there are some quick changes you can make to your technique that will have an immediate effect on improving your efficiency and movement.

TechniqueKatherine SchirrmacherJuly 5, 2019Technique, Footwork, EfficiencyComment

Climbing kindly

Because when I step onto a climb, every decision I’ve made up to that point means there is no other place I’d rather be (even in the drizzle, on 1 star routes, but then again too in the sun high up on a wonderful mountain route in Wales with my oldest friends). (written Dec 2018)

Life & Climbing, MindsetKatherine SchirrmacherJuly 5, 2019

The trials of rushing

Rab heard the crack in my finger 4 clips below, standing on the ground. He thought it was my nail. I knew it was my finger joint, but I carried on, my ego not wanting to stop climbing and my sanity hoping above all that it was nothing. (written Feb 2018)

MindsetKatherine SchirrmacherJuly 5, 2019injuryComment

Motherhood... year 1

I personally believe that climbing as a mum has different obstacles to being a dad. First of all the obvious: carrying a baby inside of you. I was fearful of pregnancy and pretty much terrified of birth. (written Sept 2014)

Katherine SchirrmacherJuly 5, 2019motherhood, pregnancy

When life turns you upside…

Clinging on to that slim thread of being a climber during life changing events is a delicate balance. Finding a place where climbing can be kind to you and can support you through is not always that easy. (written Aug 2016)

MindsetKatherine SchirrmacherJuly 5, 2019

Nov 8, 2023

5 reasons people struggle with a fear of falling

A fear of falling in climbing is evolutionary natural. It may not be something everyone admits to, but I can assume you the vast majority of climbers struggle with this. It’s quite normal and it’s absolutely not related to climbing grade. The following 5 reasons came out of a survey I did on instagram.

Aug 29, 2023

TIME - what's your relationship with it?

Time - the ongoing struggle to fit everything in and feel on top of whatever it is you feel the need to be on top of. I get it. And where does climbing fit in? 2 weeks ago I got covid, just when I didn’t want it. And so a small exploration into my relationship with time…

Feb 4, 2023

One year to crack my cold water swimming fear!

Twelve months ago I started cold water swimming. I was both terrified and intrigued. Previous attempts had not been enjoyable yet deep down I knew this was something I wanted to crack. Time, tiny steps, a marvellous group support, finding my process, trust, patience, perseverance, and FUN. I got there! So many crossovers with climbing!

Feb 1, 2023

Fear, its disguises and the nervous system

Does fear hold you back in your climbing? What is your relationship with fear like? Fear can sweep over us - it’s visceral - it’s not just a matter of the mind, but the body too - when we really understand the effect on our nervous system, we can change the relationship and overcome it.

Apr 14, 2021

The “process”

To reach any climbing goal there is a process. The process is where we spend 99% of our time and effort. Without it we get nowhere. And yet as human beings we get easily sidetracked by the outcome or shall we say ‘the top’. And when we do this, we run into trouble. Pressure looms, negative thought spirals start “will I do it?”, “when will I do it”, “why can’t I do it”? What is the process in climbing?

Jan 13, 2021

The values - performance link

“I prioritise happiness, because if I’m not happy I can’t win”. Shauna Coxsey said this and it resonates personally. Understanding and having full clarity about your values in life can be really powerful. Fully incorporating them into your every climbing experience will also have a dramatic effect on your climbing. Happiness is one of Shauna’s. What are yours?

Jan 12, 2021

Stress: do you process it?

We are living through challenging times. So often we think that we need to remove stressors to relieve stress. But at the moment that is almost impossible and it’s not necessarily the solution either. What we can do is ensure we fully process the stress in the body caused by the stressors around us. Check out this podcast from Brené Brown.

Dec 10, 2020

Boundaries: set them or get bitten!

It was a lightbulb moment when someone explained that when another person does something that annoys you or you find yourself in a situation you don’t like, it’s so often because you agreed to something you never wanted in the first place. Aha! Lack of clarity around boundaries in climbing can lead to uncomfortable experiences, even epics. Why do we find this so hard?

Oct 9, 2020

Fear of falling: a team effort?

If you have a fear of falling, this is normal. But do you try to rectify it on your own, or perhaps is it something that can be resolved as a team effort with your partner? Could falling be an accumulation of discomfort arising in the moment just before you think you may fall off?

Nov 5, 2021

When do you wear your best climbing shoes?

Around a month ago I had a revelation about climbing shoes and technique. A bit late in the day possibly after 30 years of climbing. Maybe I got lazy over the pandemic? Good shoes and footwork are intrinsicly linked - there is no doubt about that. But I decided to delve deeper into other people’s choices about when to wear their best climbing shoes.

Jul 12, 2021

Diffusing tension in the body

You can’t see what is going on in someone’s head, but their body language gives a lot away. Tension in the mind has a knock on effect in our movement - affecting our ability to fluidly execute our technique. It’s also visible in the face - how many times has my pilates teacher told me to relax my neck?! Elite climbers have huge control over this tension firstly by awareness and secondly by diffusing it with a variety of techniques.

Mar 9, 2020

Jul 5, 2019

Jul 31, 2020

Johnny Dawes Interview

CURIOSITY AND PERSISTENCE: the top two skills living legend Johnny Dawes describes as the reasons behind his success. What is clear to me is that climbing and movement for Johnny is a deeply immersive process wrapped up in his every day happenings. "It seems like your imagination makes the world how you want". Enjoy.

Lucy Creamer Interview

DEALING WITH BREAKS FROM CLIMBING Lucy was THE leading female climber of her generation, pushing standards across the board. It was a fine line though because pushing this hard also resulted in a number of accidents (a lot!!) and injury leading to long stretches of time off. Her philosophical approach meant each time she came back stronger and better.

Ben Moon Interview

VISUALISATION AND MINDSET 25 years after climbing Hubble (the world's first 9a), Ben Moon did his second of the grade, Rainshadow at Malham Cove. Something else amazing happened that day. Prior to the ascent he fell asleep and afterwards accessed a state of consciousness that put him in the perfect frame of mind for success. We talked about this day and the ascent and his overall visualisation process and mindset for climbing.

Abbie Robinson Interview

MAXIMISING MEMORY Abbie Robinson is a 2 time World Champion paraclimber in the B2 category (as of 2020). Her visual impairment gives her a unique view of the world. Our brain makes images based on memory and experience of the world. Abbie uses many tactics to improve her memory and ingrain perfect technique.