Returning to climbing
I have had many breaks from climbing. Returning is always difficult. But this time it seems different. And that’s because everything is different.
People have been asking the best way to go about this. Thinking carefully about our approach is important to ease back to previous levels and also avoid injury. You may be all guns blazing depending on your training set up through all this. For some though you may be noticing an uncomfortable sensation in your movement, a big change to your routine or loss of regular climbing partners and of course we haven’t been able to ‘just go climbing’ in the ways we normally do. Now that walls are opening, we may still need to book in advance, and travelling away from home isn’t completely straight forward. On top of this, some of us have really been through the mill with this, with knock on effects to how we work, the people we connect with regularly and our mental health (and of course we may all know people who are either ill with IT or suffering because they can’t get the treatment for other health issues). I get it, I've felt all of this at some point.
Going abroad may have to wait a bit longer. Photo: me on ‘Working Class’ 6a+ Geyikbayiri Turkey Alex Messenger
The good thing about taking a break is that it reminds us of what is important. Anything that reminds of us of that is positive. If you have become even clearer on exactly why you climb, or what you miss about it, this is an overwhelmingly important thing to connect with. Take that and hold onto it. But this is double edged as the more something means to us and the more we look forward to it, the harder it may be to deal with it when it doesn’t seem to go quite right.
Here are my 10 tips for moving forward – in no particular order, other than the first one, which certainly is the most important.
1. Whatever you do, make it fun. Keep this in the back of your mind the whole time. Basically all my points below all come back to this one.
2. Throw any ideas about grade right out of the window initially. If you have been training throughout all this (enormous well done), you can hold onto that by continuing to train (it will all come together). These first sessions back are not about performance – they are about something else.
3. Pick climbs (and types of climbing) and venues that are really fun, enjoyable and totally achievable. Select climbs you’ll romp up (ok so gear selection on trad may take time – but there will be rests everywhere so it doesn’t matter).
4. The initial aim (other to have fun) is to reconnect with the ‘feeling’ you enjoy when you climb. This may be how you feel sat by a crag, looking out at the view. It may also be regaining that sense of upwards movement – just what it feels like to wear your climbing equipment, carry it up a climb and get to the top feeling like your legs are arms can still move (slowly your trust in yourself will return). It may also be the feeling of hanging through your arms (I like this one!!).
5. The second initial aim is to focus on specific areas of your technique (sticking with point 1). If it’s footwork (and this should be a high priority), then find low pieces of rock to balance on and trust the friction, taking care to move slowly and thoughtfully. Practise all different edges and experiment with raising and lowering ankles. If it’s handholds, walk along the bottom of the crag or wall, look first, spot a handhold, imagine how you’ll hang it first, then hang it. Did you spot the best bit, could you readjust your finger position? All fingerboards have uniform flat edges. Rock is crinkly and jagged and the climbing wall has all sorts of holds that look nothing like a fingerboard – it takes time to readjust.
6. Pick climbing partners who are on the same wavelength as you – who are there with you for similar reasons. I know this is easier said than done – especially at the moment – but take time to connect with your best climbing friends and partners and plan some time in.
My climbing partners at the moment: Lucy loves routes and really tunes into what feels right (I've learnt a lot from her). Rachel loves developing new bouldering areas, I love her exploratory and curious connection with climbing
7. Take time to re-form routines. Many of us have lost routines or been forced into ones we don’t like. Form a new routine with climbing. It will take energy and planning but it’s worth it. Can you commit to a regular slot with a friend? Hold each other accountable. The forming of new routines and habits has been powerful for me through this.
8. Try not to compare yourself to what others are doing. Their experience in life, let alone all this will be different to yours.
9. If even carrying a rucksack up to the crag puts you off balance, laugh at yourself and with your friends. Sometimes being really rubbish can be quite bonding!
10. Make a promise to yourself that you will be patient through this. Everything will return eventually. Move up through the grades at the pace that feels right to you. You know when you’re ready for the next grade when you’re a bit bored of the current one or you can feel yourself itching to up the challenge.
So, there we go. Be kind to yourself. Take your time. I’d love to hear your experiences of coming back to climbing through all this.
Listen to how top professional climber Lucy Creamer got through breaks from climbing due to injury in my interview with her