Power endurance training
Me climbing the brilliant Nebulosa 7b+ at Varazze, Italy. You need power endurance for this long traverse.
If you have power endurance you will
Be able to complete long boulder problems or medium/longer routes, which are all out and at your max
Continue to climb when you’re really pumped
Do the crux of a route even though you are already a bit tired
Training power endurance in your climbing is not quite as straightforward as other kinds of training. Often people think if ‘I just get pumped loads that’ll get me fit’. Power endurance is often misunderstood, not trained correctly and as a result remains many people’s weak area.
What makes things complicated is that when you are using your power endurance you are relying on both your aerobic and anaerobic energy systems. In this high intensity zone when you are pulling off a number of hard moves in a row, neither energy system works exclusively (there is always contribution from both systems). There is no one climbing exercise that will sort this out and you need to think carefully about your aims. The key, if you have any chance of continuing to climb hard to avoid the ‘fade’ or to climb when pumped is that you need to train different aspects of your power endurance (and your endurance). The first stage is to train your short end power endurance and then afterwards your longer end power endurance.
Short end power endurance (12-15 moves)
The sensation felt after a number of moves when you fall off will be like you are ‘fading’. You’ll think ‘I’m not even pumped (damn it!)’, but you no longer have the strength to hang on. This fading is often called being ‘powered out’.
The kind of energy you are using here is anaerobic energy (the chemical reaction to make this energy doesn’t require oxygen). Short end power endurance is also known as anaerobic capacity. This kind of training does not involve getting massively pumped. It’s counterintuitive. You may think that you need to just get pumped loads to learn to tolerate a pump, but in effect this means you are constantly climbing at your max to failure, which is not a good thing. Other sports do not take the approach of constantly doing max performances, and neither should climbers. There is a more scientific approach.
Adaption time: At least 18 weeks
Short end session ideas
Linked boulders. Pick a 12-15 move boulder problem (vert or overhanging) that is 1 grade harder than your maximum onsight (so not completely at your limit – you will be able to do it after working it a handful of attempts). Climb it 3 times with a 2.5 min break in between. Rest 5 mins and repeat 2 more times. On your last set you will probably start to fail at the end of the boulder problems.
Foot on campus board. Ideally you will pick something where every move and hand type is exactly the same throughout the exercise. Climb 12-15 moves with your feet on. Climb it 3 times with a 2.5 min break in between. Rest 5 mins and repeat 2 more times. On your last set you will probably start to fail at the end of the boulder problems. If you end up getting too pumped, either lower the grade or increase the rest time.
When you are thinking about your goal try to replicate it as much as possible in your exercises. Think about replicating the angle, the shape of the holds and type of moves.
Long end power endurance (30 moves +)
Once you have been working on your aerobic and anaerobic capacity for a while, it’s time to step it up and start training with a pump. Here you are working the very high intensity end of the aerobic energy system. You have built up the ability to do hard moves over a short time in the short end training. Now you are trying to climb hard over much longer period of time with a deep pump. This is the holy grail for route climbers. We often think we are so pumped we can’t hang on any longer. The fact is people who are good at this get pumped just like everyone else, but can carry on climbing for longer periods.
In this exercise you are now climbing highish volume (you are on the wall for a good period of time) and the intensity of climbing is high. You arms will be bursting! This type of training is hard!
Adaption time: 6-8 weeks
Long end session ideas
Double laps. Find a couple of routes or circuits that are just below your onsight level. Climb the first route or circuit, rest for 1 minute. Repeat the route or circuit. Rest for 10-15 minutes and repeat 4 times. You’ll get really pumped in this exercise!!
Be careful training your long end power endurance. It’s very effective and so you might think it’s useful to train this all year round! You’ll only maximise it if you’ve built up your aerobic capacity and anaerobic capacity first and... it’s that precarious balance of high volume and quite high intensity – you risk over-training if you don’t train this element with care.