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Coming together

13 Jun 2011

Things really feel like they are starting to come together again (apart from my abs... but that seems to be a long term project).  Aside from getting rained off pretty much all my recent climbing days, I’ve actually managed to get out alot.  Most of what I do is traverse along with Vanessa scrabbling around on the ground.  She enjoyed Rubicon last week and was interested in the ducks and fluffy ducklings and I was pleased to almost do the whole traverse minus one move.

As for brick edge walls I’ve moved onto old school Broomgrove Wall.  This was the training ground for Moffat, Moon and the rest many years ago and hosts a variety of terrible handholds.  The easier bit is 7a+, which when I used to go 12 years ago was doable – for now it appears to be an ongoing project.

Chesterfield wall

Here are Siobhan and Rachel on Chesterfield Road wall

So up until this weekend whenever I’ve gone out climbing I’ve never quite got past the warm up as the weather has got in the way.  Saying that, I did manage to squeeze in the super classic Bow Wall E2 at Bosigran, Cornwall last weekend.  Amazing.  It was beautiful weather, but a wedding was calling in the afternoon!


The view from Bosigran - dreaming of better weather...

So this weekend just gone was my first weekend away without Vanessa and we headed to North Wales.  Mia and I had planned some ambitious ascents at the Cromlech, dreaming of wall to wall sunshine.  When a hail storm hit the van at 8am on Saturday morning we knew we’d have to rethink our day.  So off we went to the Orme where we managed to stay one step ahead of the drizzle, just.

I have known that I’ve been climbing well but just haven’t been able to apply myself because of the weather.  However I was more than surprised to find myself climbing Axle Attack 7a+ first go.  I have done the route before many years ago, but pre-baby ascents count for nothing at the moment!  Then we headed over to Firefly wall and I was really keen to bag my first E3 post baby.  I went for Klondike wall, which actually I think I’ve climbed before (can’t be sure!).  But that doesn’t really matter as I got the struggle I was looking for.  My lack of trad (which goes for everyone at the moment) showed as I frustratingly took about 3 to 4 attempts for every wire placement.  I really doubted myself at one point as everything feels committing but I pushed on through to the top. 

We did some more routes after that and returned to Nant Peris for drinks and chat.  Then we woke to perhaps the wettest day this year???  Optimistically we headed back home and to the Cornice in Cheedale.  The ‘warm up’ (because everything was wet) was a ‘surprise surprise’ wet 7a.  I probably put so much into that that further climbing could only be described as pitiful.  But I’m not that bothered because as I sit here my arms feel happily heavy and tired.