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Well done to Ellie - 3rd in the BRYCS!

18 Jun 2010

Big congratulations to Ellie Rymer, who came 3rd in the BRYCS (BMC Regional Youth Climbing Series) at the weekend in Ratho, Scotland.  I've been coaching Ellie for the last 2 years and this is by far her biggest achievement yet.  For me it's always really satisfying seeing people 'get it together' and get the best out of themselves.  I am really pleased for Ellie.

Ellie podium BRYCS 2010

On the podium!

Being a competition climber is a double whammy.  You need to get your training together and then keep it together on the day: it is the ultimate pressure.  Ellie is really good at the latter but the former has been a real journey... for both of us!!  But of course it's these journeys that make achievements all the more meaningful.

After months of preparation and regional competition simply getting to the national final is really a great achievement.  Competing at Ratho has a big feel and the sheer number of competitors (there were 187 over all age categories this year!) really adds to the occasion.

Ellie BRYCS 2010

Ellie on the super steep new wall

Ellie managed all 3 boulder problems but made a small mistake on one of the routes.  The margins were really slim.  Ellie still has more time in her age category (14-16) and is really motivated for more competition.  But she's also working on her outdoor climbing aswell and is coming on my Rock Action course in July.  Go for it Ellie!!


Turkey cancelled... sorry!

11 Jun 2010

Steve and I made the difficult decision this week to cancel the coaching holiday in Turkey this year.  It seemed crazy making this decision considering it's still 5 months till the actual holiday, but organising things with a baby on the horizon is proving difficult.  However France is definately going ahead and there is just one place left.

I am really sorry if you were thinking of booking on this holiday, but Steve and I definately have plans to run more holidays in the future.  So if you are interested in our plans either send me an email or sign up via the newsletter and I'll let you know what comes up.

Steve and his family came round for dinner this week and he seems to be having a great time climbing at the moment and really enjoyed his recent Pabbay experience.  You can read about his latest adventure here http://www.steve-mcclure.com/.

As I said I get few invites to the crag at the moment, but a close second was an invite to the BMC Frogatt book launch, which took place last night.  It was great to catch up with people and take a look at the new production.  Rab did a speech and you could really tell it's been a big team effort.  My come back will have to include some visits to the many crags I've never even heard of, let alone been to!

Cramming work, getting bigger and avoiding fires

02 Jun 2010

In theory things have calmed down since I met my end of May deadline.  In practice the loose ends are still numerous.  Still, no more jumaring, which my tummy muscles don’t like, less travel and hopefully less tiredness.  All outdoor work will have to wait till next year now...

It’s been a joy working out at Stanage and Cheedale in this beautiful warm weather.  Sometimes our weather can bring unnecessary stress to destination choices for work.  I wouldn’t go for it in windy, cold, wet weather, so why should you?  But for once we’ve not had to worry about that.

Things have literally in the last 2 weeks seemingly become much harder as I get bigger, but at least I’m past the stage when it just looks like you’ve ‘let yourself go’ a bit.  Saying that I get more calls now for going to the cafe, rather than out climbing.

Last week seemed particularly hectic running two BMC Fundamentals and new BMC course called Learn to Train.  First off I went to Newcastle and the 5am fire alarm required everyone to troop out of the Travelodge into the cold morning air.  I was surprised at the amount of effort, which had gone in to clothing including accessories, considering it was an ‘emergency’.  Then in Birmingham the fire opposite the Redpoint Wall made headline news on Midlands Today, shutting all roads in the area.  The factory had an asbestos roof.  Last minute changes were made over breakfast to go to Creation instead.

All this has meant little time for climbing but ‘what’s the point’ is springing to mind.  Last week I was still leading 6b+ but my tummy muscles don’t like lowering down and if a hold was to break, it wouldn’t be much fun.  I’m little use belaying now too, so if the opportunity arises... for a top rope here and there, I may well take it.

Nic’s just been to the Verdon for two weeks.  The theory is that if I encourage him now, I’ll get some extra days thrown in for my come back.  He’s returned full of energy and inspired but less keen on the significant rock quality drop back here in the UK... he’s just walked out the door heading for Cheedale tonight.  Anyway, here’s an idea of where he’s been.  It’s not him in the vid, just some crazy Frenchies he watched on their slackline.  Wild!!

I have a feeling that blogs will get less and less as my life fills less with climbing and more with baby things.  Interesting for me, but maybe less so for you.  By the way, I'm not posting any pics of me 'avec bump' - you don't want to see them!  But I will keep in touch from time to time!!

PS There are just two spaces left on the France holiday and one on Rock Action. There are still some on Turkey (although book soon as I need to make a decision one way or another on the latter at the end of August).