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Training strength

16 Dec 2015

Ultimately the most important element to train (if it’s your weakness):  Strength

If you can’t do the moves, you’ll never do the route or boulder problem.  Training overall is not that simple, but it is the starting point.  Sometimes your technique is the reason you can’t to the move, but it may also be your strength.

Read my latest article to find out the key methods to getting strong:

  • Bouldering
  • Pull ups
  • Locking off
  • Fingerboard

I would love to hear how useful you are finding these articles.  Some people have let me know that they’re planning next year’s training now with the use of the articles.  Perhaps they can help you.  My next article is about putting everything together.  Hopefully by early 2016 you’ll have a plan!

Power endurance article

10 Dec 2015

Here's the biggie:  power endurance.

Power endurance is one of the least understood areas of climbing and it's fundamental to our sport.  I've written an article on it here.

Hopefully it's not too difficult to understand.  It's easy to get bogged down with the science - it is quite a complicated area, made even more complicated by the difference language people use to describe it.  I've included links to 2 really good videos by Wild Country featuring James Pearson talking through exactly what I've written in the articles (using slightly different language).

Please let me know what you think.

Final two articles are on strength and 'putting it all together'.  All in the countdown to Christmas so that you can start planning your training for next year (if you haven't already) or to get you in the mood for my winter workshops!

Training endurance

03 Dec 2015

The previous articles I have written talked about planning what you actually want to climb and preparing your body to train.  I am now moving onto some specifics.  Personally, my training has become a lot more effective when I understand why I need to train certain things.  Others may be happy to simply be given an exercise and complete it.  However it's a well known fact that we all individually need to do different training - it is not a one size fits all approach.  We all have different bodies, lives, amounts of time and climbing goals.  So we have to learn to take control of our own climbing.

It's crucial to understand there are different energy systems. We all know the difference between a marathon and a sprint. Each uses different energy systems and we have to train each of them. So this is my next article.

Energy Systems

Following on from that is base level endurance training.  There is virtually no climber in the world that won't benefit from this in some way at some stage in their climbing life.  I found it fascinating to watch the Legends Only competition at the weekend.  You might think the bouldering specialists would be the winners, but it was the lead climber Janja Garnbret (from Slovenia) who won.  Yes she has marvellous technique and she's only just finished the world cup season and her talent is quite remarkable, however... her endurance would have massively helped her.  The commentator mentioned how much more time she was able to spend working the boulder problems than the other competitors and during the competition she could recover more easily between goes.

Training endurance