I hope you enjoy these articles. Some are about my climbing or mountain experiences, others about training. I hope to keep it varied and interesting...
Becoming a Mountain Leader
Passing your ‘ML’ allows you to trek round the British Isles with anyone who wants to experience our wondrous mountains.
Interview: Ben Davison
Here's a great interview with Ben Davison who came on Rock Action in 2010 and 2011.
Interview: Buster Martin
Buster came on Rock Action in 2009 and 2010.
Mental approach: trad climbing
Climbing on traditional gear is the mainstay of British climbing.
Technique: 5 quick fixes
Overall it takes a very long time to build up good technique because of the complexities of the different techniques required for different angles, rock types and according to whether you are onsighting, redpointing or working moves at your limit on a boulder problem.
Technique: how to work on it
Making technique a focus is hard, uncomfortable, not instantly gratifying and hence few people do it.
The MIA Experience
Nowadays whenever I go to Plas y Brenin I always have the same breakfast: 2 hash browns, a tomato, a poached egg and two bacon.
Training: benefits of keeping a training diary
Do you keep a training diary? Do you perceive that only hard core training obsessed climbers should keep one and that it doesn’t apply to you? I would say that recording what you do is worth it for climbers of all levels.
If you have climbing endurance you will Have a good aerobic capacity Be able to climb for a long time – particularly useful on long pitches that may take half an hour or more Recover from a pump.
Training: Energy systems
In order to do any exercise we need to create energy for the muscles to work.
Training: Power endurance
If you have power endurance you will Be able to complete long boulder problems or medium/longer routes, which are all out and at your max Continue to climb when you’re really pumped Do the crux of a route even though you are already a bit tired Improve your lactate threshold Training power endurance is not quite as straightforward as other kinds of training.
Training: Putting it all together
Hopefully by now you are getting a picture of endurance, power endurance and strength and that it all needs to be put together SOMEHOW for YOU.
Training: stability, core and flexibility
To begin any kind of training phase it's important to have a strong and stable body.
The bottom line for all climbing is a basic level of strength.
Training: What is it?
Training is an all encompassing word.
Turkey 08 coaching holiday: a personal perspective by Caroline Goldsworthy
Lose the Fear, Love to Climb Caroline Goldsworthy “If you can’t’ do the move, Caroline, then just down-climb: down-climb to a rest or to the bottom if you need to.